Ludwig Van Selvedge 2 – From Europe to ‘Nam

In 2012 Ludwig Van and Quintin Co decided to continue their Selvedge Project partnership. Which has yet to spawn anything ordinary or predictable. However interestingly enough the collab falls a bit into a grey area. Primarily because the hats were not composed of denim. Instead vintage WWII, Vietnam, and canvas fabrics were used. As well as some vintage Japanese broadcloth fabrics, for added contrasted.

In WWI both the Central and Allied powers employed trench warfare tactics. Huge trenches were dug and soldiers stayed there for prolonged periods. Partially as a results soldiers would wear thick woolen clothing. Wool is a strong material, it would be difficult for someone to be impaled by a bayonet and it would keep soldiers warm in the damp trenches. However when WWII rolled around trench warfare was gone. War was fought everywhere across Europe and Asia. Uniforms changed to reflect changing philosophies in what was deemed the best uniforms at the time. Woolen uniforms became lighter, twill was introduced, and canvas was beginning to take a backseat.

One reason why twills were replacing duck canvas in US uniforms were that they were lighter and more pliable. Furthermore twills would eventually go on to replace standard woolen US military uniforms. Later in the late 1950s a new type of uniform was developed, dubbed Mitchell camo, during the Korean war. Originally the uniforms came in reversible coats. One side being known as “leaf,” the other known as “clouds.” Mitchell camo was in service long enough to actual see some soldiers don it in Vietnam. Duck canvas was  also an old military fabric being used as late as the early 20th century before falling out of favor in the military. It is made of a heavy gauge woven cotton, its origins being attributed to the Dutch term “deok.” The actually meaning of the term refers to sailor’s garments. It was also used by US laborers. This is evidenced by Levi’s making Duck Canvas pants for miners.

Lugwig Van x Quintin’s duck canvas snapback is featured. Duck canvas makes up the primary material used for the cap’s construction. Unlike modern hats, that are made of twill, the cap is very stern and doesn’t seem frail at all. Moving your fingers over the bill of the cap gives you a sense of how touch this duck canvas is, the canvas is rough and rigid. Instead of dying the duck canvas a different color, Ludwig chose to stick with the default color of the canvas, which is somewhere between a semi-subtle brownish orange. Giving the hat more contrast a full grain leather, likely cowhide, Selvedge X Project patch is sewn onto the front. Moving to the underbill vintage Mitchell Clouds camo is used, giving the hat a stronger sense of Americana. The inside of the hat comes with  a red selvedge denim stash pocket. Finally rounding off the hat Ludwig decided to include a broadcloth backing to the front panel. Broadcloth itself having roots in both Japan and Europe. Regardless of its origin broadcloth is recognized as a luxury fabric. The vintage Japanese broadcloth has a unique print, which provides contrast as well as a touch of inconspicuous luxury. Like the first Selvedge X Project the Scout Series caps are silent hits for Ludwig Van and Quintin Co. Although they are very difficult to come across.

Duck Canvas construction, full grain leather patch.

Ludwig Van tags

Vintage Mitchell Camo underbill, Vietnam era.

Red selvedge denim stash pocket. Vintage Japanese broadcloth backing.

Vans x Engineered Garments – 1966 Visits 2013

Everyone talks about the old days. The 90s, the 80s, the 70s, the 60s, etc. As the typical line goes everything was made better, we had better music, then we drown out the boring monologue that ensues. However recently over the past few years, especially in 2013 there have been an explosion of reproductions and retros by many big name companies. Converse, Adidas, Nike, Reebok, New Balance, and even Vans have become apart of this tend, or maybe I should say lifestyle. Theres always something that a shoe is missing that prevents it from being a true reproduction. Converse and Nike being prime examples of this. New Balance is one of the few brands that can honestly say they make reproductions of some of their classic shoes. One of the reasons why reproductions and retros are becoming so popular is mainly of their look and their quality. The original just looks so different and unique compared to their modern day predecessors, but buying vintage is a lifestyle all its own. You can’t always buy into it, Theres a lot of groundwork that needs to be done. Retro is the obvious surrogate to the dilemma of trying to buy vintage shoes or clothes.

Engineered Garments is a New York based artisan brand. They make their products with the best American materials they can find. They take old ideas and spin them with modern day thinking. Take your time making a great quality jacket with inspiration from vintage clothing, but make it look cool with modern trends combined with aesthetics. With artisan brands the materials they use are always well thought out, they don’t just grab any piece of cotton or any old piece of leather. It has to be meaningful, it has to reflect a certain idea. Engineered Garments is a very Americana influenced brand. They look at older style of clothing from the 50s and earlier, as well as looking at military clothing and make them look hip(ster). Instead of clothes fitting looser or having a fitted cut, many of their jackets, pants, etc have slimmer fits. Likewise their use of color brings a bolder look to America’s old fashion styles of the Cold War. Earlier this September Engineered Garments  opened a pop up shop at Nepenthes New York. The theme was to do a mismatch of leather and suede on some blazers, provoking a strong contrast of two items which in reality share the same origin. Both Vans and New Balance came to join Engineered Garments for their pop up shop.

Vans is currently celebrating its Vault line’s 10th anniversary and as a result have been releasing a lot of limited run collabs with various distinguished brands. For this particular collab there were two releases.  Slip-Ons with mismatched leather and suede uppers on opposing sides of both shoes and Authentics made with Americana type materials. While the former of the two are probably the most eye catching, the Authentics are also very sought after as one pair is made with a 12 oz sunforger canvas, while the other is made with an olive sateen upper. A 12 oz sunforger canvas can be used to pitch a tent in the wilderness or even to protect a boat’s deck at sea from the sun. So this specific material plays back to Vans using thick duck canvas’ for their original release of Authentics, or style 44 as they were original called. Further paying tribute to the Authentic Engineered Garments chose to make the Authentics look like they did back in 1966. While not  true reproductions they look closer to what they did back in 1966. They have a backstay, the sole design is slightly different, they use cotton laces, the bumper doesn’t wrapped around the front of the shoes as much,  and they choose to use an older retro label for the back of the shoe. So in essence they made a retro or “OG” Authentic. If you’re someone thats into the retro scene, or just likes how the older Vans look, you might be into this. If you’re all about the vintage life and Americana this is probably nothing to special. In any case this is still one of Vans Vault’s better years.

A retro Van Doren box is used.

A backstay is present on the heel of the shoe.

All white pinstriping is used. Metal eyelets are used, possibly made of a nickel alloy. The bumper doesn’t wrap around the front of the shoe as much as the modern Authentics do.

A white on white Vans side tab is used instead of the typical color on white side tabs.

A light yellow Off The Wall logo was chosen instead of the traditional red logo.

Leather glued to inside of shoes heel.

Matching laces included.

Sateen version.

One of the mismatched Slip-On shoes.

The collection also included clothing.

*Only available at the Nepenthes shop in New York. They do accept phone orders.

*May be sold out.

Converse – Before The Swoosh There was The Star Pt 5

2001-present: Life After Death

While it is a tragedy that Converse, the once all American Athletic footwear company no longer makes their shoes in America, they are not gone. Under Nike’s direction Converse is a shadow of its former self, as many of their products would not meet classic Converse’s high standards. Regardless many people still buy the more cheaply made Converse Chuck Taylor All Stars and love Converse’s First String shoe division. However it seems Asia in particular, has the most love for Converse’s Chuck Taylor All Star. Just in Thailand alone many residents not only collect Chuck Taylors, but they even collect them by what country made them. Behind Asia’s great love affair with this foreign product began in the 50s. After WWII much of Asia had been devastated by the war. In particular their domestic manufacturing. There were few factories left that made any products in Asia. The Americans likewise saw the opportunity to Americanize the Asian nations. Although this tactic widely failed, many Oriental people came to love a few US brands. Converse being one of those brands. Various US businesses exported their goods to different Asian territories.  Japan and Thailand being important examples. Many rare Converse shoes have found their way to Thailand. Today the original spirit of Converse is alive and well, in Japan.

Back in the early 1980s Converse had inked a deal with with a few companies to make Converse products in Japan. Once Converse filed for bankruptcy in 2001, Converse’s Japan division became an independent entity. As Nike moved to take control of Converse in America,  Converse in Japan was free. Free to continue Converse’s original path to redemption and relevancy.

At face value most people would be unable to understand the differences between Converse (Nike) and Converse Japan. Firstly its important to know that they are not the same company. Converse has different divisions in the UK, Brasil, Hong Kong, etc. Converse Japan is its own company, only they can make and sell Converse products in Japan. Whereas Converse (Nike) cannot sell their products in Japan and likewise Converse Japan cannot have a presence in America. The quality of both companies’ products is different. The quality of Converse’s basic product line, which is made mostly of the Chuck Taylor All Star, went down drastically after 2003, giving us the modern day Chuck Taylor in America. As they make their footwear overseas with very little to no quality control. Whereas Converse Japan still makes their basic line of Chuck Taylors to the same specifications that they were made back in the 90s. They do make many of their products in foreign countries as well, but demand a much higher standard of quality for their shoes. Lastly Converse in America no longer produces their footwear on American soil. While Converse Japan does manufacture a percentage of their footwear in Japan by highly skilled shoe cobblers.

Basic Converse Oxford in monochrome black from both Converse and Converse Japan. Converse’s Oxford shoes (top), have cheaper soles, a less uniform construction, and the modern All Star label.  Converse Japan’s All Star Oxford (bottom) stays true to the classic Converse 90s Oxford design with the white All Star logo on the tongue, a better built sole, and the 70s label on the heel.

From the late 90s to 2001 Converse in America had decided to change its direction. They wanted to be more of a lifestyle and heritage brand that could remain relevant while still contributing new things to the world of shoes. They usually did so by experimenting with different shoe designs as well as recreating the All Star with different materials and prints. Present day Converse is in arrested development. While Nike has made some attempts to help Converse evolve, they have ultimately given up. While they do experiment from time to time , it is obvious that they only do so sparingly. Converse’s pro basketball division headed by Wade Dwayne faltered, and when the athlete left, the division eventually came to an end. Their main focus is marketing the Chuck Taylor and exposing it to an array of prints and some moderate revisions/recreations under the First String division. However its nothing new from what Converse was already doing in the late 90s. At current Nike’s newest contribution to Converse’s evolution are the recent inclusion of Lunarlon insoles in Converse’s skating shoes. Converse Japan has continued where the original Converse left off in 2001. Continually improving the products, remaining creative, and introducing innovation every concurrent year. Under their guiding direction Converse’s classic shoes were improved using the US Originator Specifications and the Renewal Specifications. The US Originator Spec are Converse Japan shoes made to standards of Converse shoes of the 90s. They have better insoles, and use better rubbers, as well as being  made to a higher overall standard of quality. The Renewal Spec take Converse shoes and modernize them further with a removable antibacterial cup insole, denser soles, as well as using better materials and having a quality control system in place like the original Converse used to have. Converse Japan constantly experiments with the Chuck Taylor All Star silhouette, giving them spontaneous prints and unique material reconstructions. However they don’t have all their attention on the Chuck Taylor, they also have interesting takes on the Jack Purcell, the One Star, the Chevron Star, and even retroing Converse’s many forgotten shoe models.

Converse Japan U.S. Originator Spec.

Converse Japan’s Renewal Spec.

However what has truly set Converse Japan apart from its American counterpart is the creation of the Converse Addict division as well as their domestic made offerings. Converse Addict is basically the Chuck Taylor All Star, as well as the Jack Purcell, reborn for the modern era. Converse Japan builds the outer upper of the shoes with the best materials and designed the shoes with the look of the classic All Stars of the 60s-70s. They gave them the best insoles, as well as outfitting them with Vibram soles. Shoes that even Chuck Tayor would have wanted to play basket ball in, as well as flaunt. Furthermore Converse Japan still operates its original factories. The One Star being the most consistently made in Japan. Constructed of the most immaculate leathers, by highly trained professionals. Although Converse Japan occasionally makes their All Stars in Japan, which uncannily never stays in stock for very long. Their most sought after Made in Japan shoes are their 1970s Chuck Taylor reproductions made for United Arrows.

The One Star has a cult following in Japan.

 

Converse Japan’s latest Made in Japan Chuck Taylor offering.

Heres a few retros that Converse Japan has made:

The Bosey boot.

The Converse Lucky Boy.

The Converse Skidgrip.

Converse wrestling shoe.

 

Converse Army shoes.

Converse Japan’s Addict division revamped the Chuck Taylor All Star in many subtle ways. While not a true reproduction nor a retro, more of a re-envisioning. If the Chuck Taylor All Star had just been released today, it probably look like this. New colors are released every season.

Converse Japan make better reproductions. Their collab with United Arrows spawned the 1970s Chuck Taylor All Star 6 years before Converse America released their own reproduction. Made in Japan with materials true to the construction of the shoe, the right sole design, proper brandings, stitching, and an accurate box, this is probably the closest thing people will get to a true a 1970s Chuck Taylor All Star, without actually buying a vintage one. Multiple versions have been released.

Various unique designs from Converse Japan.

In short Converse Japan is superior than Converse in America today. In essence they are the true Converse. They pay attention to the details of design, they don’t compromise quality, and they pay tribute to their heritage. Hopefully they’ll get around to making a reproduction of the Converse Skoots. Til then people who have turned away from Converse in the last decade or so can rest easy knowing that the spirit of old Converse is still around. Maybe they might even find themselves falling in love with the brand once more.

*Converse Japan’s official Website

Ludwig Van x Gourmet – From East Germany to your Feet

     After the end of WWII in 1945 Germany was considered the biggest loser of the war. The Allies, specifically the British and French, wanted to completely dismantle Germany and let other adjacent countries take pieces of Germany for themselves. This however was ultimately stopped, in part because of the Soviet Union’s desire to expand the scope of Communism to the world. Under the wing of the Soviet Union the Deutsche Demokratische Republik or Democratic Republic of Germany, East Germany, was established on October 7, 1949. 

     Ludwig Van, having an eye for vintage deadstock (unused) materials, always makes something new out of something thought to be old. Not too long ago they stumbled on to some vintage deadstock DRG camouflage. Since 2011 it seems as though Ludwig Van has been on a mission to locate fine deadstock army materials. These same materials have a history that is all their own, they are often overlooked for being obsolete or uninteresting. Many enthusiasts, including Ludwig Van, of vintage army apparel, usually see how patterns of old camos have relevance today. Partnered with Gourmet, Ludwig Van unveils the first release for their Utility Project.

     Gourmet is an American footwear brand established in 2005. Like Ludwig Van, Gourmet tends to go in a different direction with their shoes compared to most other brands. They like to experiment and explore with their footwear. Coupled with Ludwig Van the collaboration makes perfect sense. For the Utility Project release there will be four different models: the Kilgore Cinque  in duck canvas, the Kilgore Cinque in a vinatge army twill, the DDR Quattro Skate midtop, and the DDR Cinque lo. Probably the biggest stand outs in this release are the duck canvas Kilgore and the DDR midtop shoes.

     The highlights on the DDR Quattro Skate mid is its construction of vintage DDR camo, a leather heel tab, black leather logo on the tongue of the shoe, and a Ludwig Van side tab on the heel. While not constructed of DDR the Kilgore Cinque is instead built together using duck canvas. The highlights on the Kilgore include a Ludwig Van tab on the upper of the shoe, a leather patch on the heel of the shoe, and its construction of duck canvas in a rich utilitarian orange. The origins of this particular pattern of DDR camo goes back to 1965, it was used by the East German army until 1990. Much of the DDR camo has since ended up in places all over the world, being adopted by other regimes and guerrilla fighters. As a result any DDR camo is highly sought after by collectors and enthusiasts looking to hold onto a unique German made design. Ludwig Van and Gourmet bring new life to something old, they modernized the East German soldier.

Leather heel tab. Highly sought after “teardrop” pattern.

Ludwig Van side tabs.

Leather Gourmet embossed patch on tongue.

Gourmet embossed patch on heel.

Ludwig Van side tabs.

Constructed of vintage Walls Outdoor Duck Canvas. A rich orange-brown color is typically used for duck canvas material.

Snap back made entirely of DDR camo.

Two soldiers wearing DDR camo, during the Cold War.

Various examples of East German uniforms.

*Shoes will be released by both Ludwig Van and Gourmet on their respectives webstores on 2/16/13 at noon PST.

*Ludwig Van webstore:

http://shop.ludwigvantheman.com/

*Gourmet webstore:

http://gourmetfootwear.com/

**UPDATE 7~16~13**

Due to the increased flow of traffic on this article I am including additional information on these products. For enthusiasts of authentic Vintage DDR and army fabrics, it should be noted that all of these fabrics are real. Two of the Cinques are made of deadstock US army fabrics. While these fabrics were meant to be made for US soldiers, some just sat around for years because of an abundant surplus. Likewise the shoes and hat made of real DDR fabrics. Today that are many fakes and reproductions of DDR camouflage, but Ludwig Van shunned the idea of doing such a thing. Compared to the fakes and reproductions used by various brands, this is something that is worth having for any lover of old school army products, just updated for modern wear.

DDR Cinque.

The Cinque, or Kilgore, made of  a Vintage US Army twill fabric from the 1970s.

*Note that in order to make the project truly unique, Ludwig Van and Gourmet released these shoes with their brand logos swapped from their respective locations on the footwear, so there might be some variation.

*Primitive also has the Utility Project shoes in stock:

http://www.primitiveshoes.com/brands.cfm?Brand=Gourmet