Ludwig Van Selvedge 2 – From Europe to ‘Nam

In 2012 Ludwig Van and Quintin Co decided to continue their Selvedge Project partnership. Which has yet to spawn anything ordinary or predictable. However interestingly enough the collab falls a bit into a grey area. Primarily because the hats were not composed of denim. Instead vintage WWII, Vietnam, and canvas fabrics were used. As well as some vintage Japanese broadcloth fabrics, for added contrasted.

In WWI both the Central and Allied powers employed trench warfare tactics. Huge trenches were dug and soldiers stayed there for prolonged periods. Partially as a results soldiers would wear thick woolen clothing. Wool is a strong material, it would be difficult for someone to be impaled by a bayonet and it would keep soldiers warm in the damp trenches. However when WWII rolled around trench warfare was gone. War was fought everywhere across Europe and Asia. Uniforms changed to reflect changing philosophies in what was deemed the best uniforms at the time. Woolen uniforms became lighter, twill was introduced, and canvas was beginning to take a backseat.

One reason why twills were replacing duck canvas in US uniforms were that they were lighter and more pliable. Furthermore twills would eventually go on to replace standard woolen US military uniforms. Later in the late 1950s a new type of uniform was developed, dubbed Mitchell camo, during the Korean war. Originally the uniforms came in reversible coats. One side being known as “leaf,” the other known as “clouds.” Mitchell camo was in service long enough to actual see some soldiers don it in Vietnam. Duck canvas was  also an old military fabric being used as late as the early 20th century before falling out of favor in the military. It is made of a heavy gauge woven cotton, its origins being attributed to the Dutch term “deok.” The actually meaning of the term refers to sailor’s garments. It was also used by US laborers. This is evidenced by Levi’s making Duck Canvas pants for miners.

Lugwig Van x Quintin’s duck canvas snapback is featured. Duck canvas makes up the primary material used for the cap’s construction. Unlike modern hats, that are made of twill, the cap is very stern and doesn’t seem frail at all. Moving your fingers over the bill of the cap gives you a sense of how touch this duck canvas is, the canvas is rough and rigid. Instead of dying the duck canvas a different color, Ludwig chose to stick with the default color of the canvas, which is somewhere between a semi-subtle brownish orange. Giving the hat more contrast a full grain leather, likely cowhide, Selvedge X Project patch is sewn onto the front. Moving to the underbill vintage Mitchell Clouds camo is used, giving the hat a stronger sense of Americana. The inside of the hat comes with  a red selvedge denim stash pocket. Finally rounding off the hat Ludwig decided to include a broadcloth backing to the front panel. Broadcloth itself having roots in both Japan and Europe. Regardless of its origin broadcloth is recognized as a luxury fabric. The vintage Japanese broadcloth has a unique print, which provides contrast as well as a touch of inconspicuous luxury. Like the first Selvedge X Project the Scout Series caps are silent hits for Ludwig Van and Quintin Co. Although they are very difficult to come across.

Duck Canvas construction, full grain leather patch.

Ludwig Van tags

Vintage Mitchell Camo underbill, Vietnam era.

Red selvedge denim stash pocket. Vintage Japanese broadcloth backing.

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